A Guide to Shirt Fabrics

The world of fabrics is not only diverse in terms of colors and patterns, but also in terms of materials, weaves and properties.

Which shirt fabric is best suited for your shirt? What should you consider?

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Twill

Twill is a robust fabric, not very prone to creasing, relatively breathable, with a pleasant, soft feel. It can be recognized by the diagonal pattern. This effect is created by a weaving technique in which the warp and weft are woven accordingly. A shirt made of twill falls beautifully on the body. Ideal for shirts that are to be worn all year round. An absolutely versatile fabric. From a white twill shirt to a formal blue suit to a checked shirt with jeans.

Poplin

A very smooth, dense fabric with a slight sheen, durable and cool to the touch. Like twill, an absolute classic among shirt fabrics.
Can be worn all year round with slight restrictions in winter as the fabric is not particularly warm. However, it is also not the ideal choice for a shirt in midsummer, as the tightly woven fabric restricts breathability and therefore limits air circulation. The sheen makes it more suitable for formal shirts.

Oxford

A very robust fabric with a distinctive structure. The fabric is relatively soft and supple, with a slightly rougher feel at higher fabric weights. Oxford is woven as a Panama weave. Two or more threads are woven as a warp and weft. Can be worn all year round. The light fabric weights are for the warmer seasons, the heavy ones for the cold days. Due to the somewhat rough fabric structure, Oxford shirts are not advisable for particularly formal occasions.

For the summer

Linen

The classic for summer. Made from flax fiber, woven with open weave, with a firm feel and excellent breathability, plus the legendary susceptibility to creasing. A linen shirt is definitely not suitable for formal occasions, but is ideal for a light summer shirt on hot days. Perfect for a casual outfit.

Flannel

The shirt fabric for winter. Very soft to the touch, with a roughened surface, robust and cuddly. Its warming properties make flannel the ideal fabric for cold days in autumn and winter. Available in a range of colours and patterns, making it extremely versatile.

Giro Inglese or Cellulare

The ultimate fabric for a summer shirt. Giro Inglese, also known as Cellulare, is a very open weave fabric with a honeycomb structure. This makes the fabric extremely breathable and air-permeable. In very hot and humid conditions, the shirt feels cool and light. A shirt fabric perfect for the warmest
days of the year.

Seersucker

Another summer fabric. Seersucker has a ruffled, wavy structure. The effect is created by varying the tension of the warp threads during weaving. Due to the uneven surface, the fabric does not lie directly on the skin and allows better air circulation. The blue and white striped pattern is typical. Seersucker is a beautiful fabric for an informal summer shirt for the next garden party or the beach.

Jeans

A fabric that everyone knows, usually as jeans. However, jeans can also be used to make wonderful classic shirts. The fabric weight is usually lighter than that of trousers and is therefore more comfortable to wear. The typical characteristics of jeans, such as fading after many washes, make a denim shirt more and more interesting over the years. It acquires a patina, so to speak. A classic denim shirt is an excellent basis for a casual look. Not necessarily recommended for very hot days.